Ray Jordan WA Wine Guide 2009

When all is said and done, most producers will look back on 2008 as a good to very good vintage. Certainly after the difficulties of the very cool 2006 and the recovery in 2007, when vines struggled to get back to their best, 2008 seemed to deliver the good in all areas.

There were two major events, however, which impacted on the fruit. The first was searing heat on Christmas and Boxing Days in 2007, which continued into the very warm to hot conditions in January. This was more of an issue in the northern vineyard areas. Southern vineyards reported almost perfect ripening and the indications are strong for some exceptional wines, especially the reds.

The second was a freak hail storm, which randomly struck a number of vineyards, especially those in Margaret River, resulting in some significant crop losses.

The early heat did bring a lot of the varieties on much quicker than expected, especially after the very cool December, putting some pressure on processing facilities in the wineries.

Indications from the early releases of aromatics and blended whites point to a very good year, while the reds from all reports are looking terrific, although we won.t see these until into 2009.

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McHenry Hohnen Vintners

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3 Amigos Marsanne Chardonnay Rousanne 2006

This is the best release yet under this label. It's an unusual blend but one that builds texture and palate weight, especially important in this cool southern vintage. Aromatic with a deliciously appealing savoury fruity mix on the palate. Wild yeast influence really works well in this excellent wine.

Score:90/100

McHenry Hohnen Vintners

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3 Amigos Shiraz Grenache Mataro 2006

Very tidy wine crated from this quite tough vintage. It's medium bodied with plenty of earthy savoury and slightly rural character. Soft and malleable on the palate with oodles of lip smacking fruit. Mataro is an alternative name for Mourvedre, so don't get too confused.

Score:86/100

Larry Cherubino

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Ad Hoc Middle of Everywhere Shiraz 2007

This is a super value-for-money Shiraz that could easily sell for a lot more. Typically lush Frankland fruit with real power in an engine room of ripe tannins, quality subtle oak and powerful fleshy ripe Shiraz. Like the blueberry vanillin mix on the palate.

Score:90/100

Kerfuffle

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Archer's Drop White Port 2007

Typically fragrant aromas of spice and musk with touches of apricot. Has a nice clean spirit on the palate with some sweetness evident, though the finish is quite dry.

Score:84/100

Woodside Valley Estate

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Baudin Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Opens with a distinctive leafy and slightly herbal character on the nose. It's a lighter style, reflecting the vintage with a seamless integration. Minerally edge with a touch of herbs complete a nice wine.

Score:89/100

Woodside Valley Estate

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Bissy Merlot 2006

Another in the medium-weight zone. Bouquet offers some nice light mint and dusty oak with a distinctive brambly influence. The palate is neatly integrated with fine, sinewy tannins, cedary spicy oak and a little medium-weight fruit intensity.

Score:87/100

Willow Bridge

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Black Dog Shiraz 2005

Has retained the deep dark colour and plate concentration but there is more elegance and style about this vintage than most previous ones. It's got a better palate balance, which allows the fruit to expressive itself. Spicy and savoury characters with some beautiful oak treatment. Masses of dark, rich chocolate and savoury plum. Delicious.

Score:91/100

Alkoomi

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Blackbutt 2005

A blend of predominantly cabernet with Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This follows a very good 2004 but takes it up a notch. Immensely powerful but with great style typical of good years in the Frankland River area. Seductive perfumed notes and a deep multi-layered palate. A beauty.

Score:95/100

Forest Hill

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Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Velvety smooth and supple Cabernet. The aromas are enticing with black currant and savoury dark plum merged with some nice fine grained oak. The palate is controlled and effortlessly long, striking a perfect balance. Velvety smooth and immensely powerful.

Score:94/100

Hay Shed Hill

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Block 6 Chardonnay 2007

Zesty and crisp with fine, melony citrus influences striking the nose and the palate. Delicate and fine palate delivers a persistent finish. Attractive drinking over the next couple of years.

Score:89/100

Forest Hill

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Block 8 Chardonnay 2006

This was a very good vintage for whites down at Denmark. This is a super wine. Complex mealy grapefruit aromas with a subtle butterscotch richness. The palate has a seamlessly complex texture with persistence and great intensity. Power and elegance combined.

Score:91/100

Woodside Valley Estate

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Bonnefoy Shiraz 2006

Plenty of savoury, spicy characters on the open notes of the nose. Winemaker Kevin McKay has crafted an elegant angular Shiraz with a silkiness that makes it quite appealing. Like the spicy leafy palate and that slightly dusty cedary oak. Classy wine of some style.

Score:92/100

Brookland Valley

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Cabernet Merlot 2003

Robust and powerful slightly chunky Cabernet Merlot that really packs a punch. The bouquet of black currant and black olive with some lush fruitcake and dark plum nuances. The palate is loaded with ripe tannins and lashings of oak. Will develop beautifully.

Score:91/100

Xabregas Wines

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Cabernet Merlot 2005

Poised and fleshy Cab Merlot which fits perfectly into the drink-me, drink-me category. Fruit is dominant but the dusty oak and fine ripe tannins provide ample structure.

Score:85/100

Kerfuffle

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Cabernet Merlot 2005

An elegant blend showing some strong Merlot influence with fruitcake and stewed plum characters merging with a mix of blackcurrant and prune. The palate is earthy and rich with dark fruitcake flavours emerging. Plenty to like about it.

Score:88/100

Laurance

Cabernet Merlot 2005

About the most complete red wine yet from Laurance. Ripe, savoury blackcurrant and dark chocolate plum flavours, with a rich powerfully structured palate carrying to a long finish. It's slightly chunky and firm but will develop nicely over the next few years.

Score:85/100

Umamu Estate

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Cabernet Merlot 2005

Medium-bodied easy drinking blend showing a slightly sappy middle-palate underpinning the supple fleshiness of the Merlot. Nicely weighted oak and fine tannins.

Score:84/100

Celestial Bay

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Cabernet Merlot 2005 ($22.50)

This is starting to show some attractive complexity. It's a stylish wine of some power. Tobacco and blackcurrant on the nose with a leafy overtone. Controlled lingering palate with good structure for this style.

Score:86/100

Chatsfield

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Cabernet Merlot 2006

Very pretty wine displaying red berry and lifted mint aromas with touches of light cedary. The palate is balanced with fine tannins and gentle applied oak. It's a medium bodied wine for drinking over the next couple of years.

Score:86/100

Evans & Tate

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Cabernet Merlot 2006

Stacks of lively fruit driven palate appeal in here. It retains a tightish angular mouth feel but there's ample flesh and flavour to provide excellent drinking.

Score:86/100

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