GREAT SOUTHERN RIESLING

During the early part of 2010, I tasted a selection of current and recent release rieslings from a number of producers from the Great Southern region of Western Australia.

The tasting provided further evidence that the Great Southern is clearly one of Australia's great Riesling regions. When the season is good, allowing good gentle flavour build up without disease the wines can be stunning. The 2009 vintage, for example was one of the finest, albeit with sadly very small volumes.

It is a large area stretching from Frankland River through to the Porongurups and although there are sub regional variations the general regional style is one of intense citrus with lime dominance, minerality and a little distinctive spiciness. The distinctively cool Porongurups adds a further restraint to the style and remains one of the most exciting regions for this variety.

Along with the recent releases the region's winemakers also provided me with a selection of older vintages. With the exception of one affected by cork (the only wine sealed under cork too) all of the wines were in good condition, with the best of them exceptional.

There were some obvious highlights. For instance the Rickety Gate 2003 riesling is a remarkable wine that is the current release from this small producer. Owner Russell Hubbard did release a small amount back in late 2003, but quickly realised that it needed time to settle down and was worth holding back. So after a few cases went out he held it back until now.

This has matured into an adult riesling of great style and class, with thankfully many more years ahead of it. In fact Hubbard and winemaker John Wade believe it has at least seven years and probably more.

CURRENT AND RECENT RELEASE

Rickety Gate Great Southern Riesling 2003 ($30) Yes, this seven year old wine is the current release. A special wine showing the strength of riesling in this region. Lovely toasty citrus aromas with a still zingy lively palate showing some subtle development. Mineral slaty acid is sustained and long. Still has plenty of time ahead of it. Score: 95/100 Cellar: 7 years

Frankland Estate Smith Cullam Great Southern Riesling 2008 ($45) Frankland Estate has been a leader in promoting Riesling throughout Australia. This one is something different. It's slightly sweet and its fermentation takes place in oak, albeit a 1000-litre big boy that imparts no oak character but is designed to add texture. It's a beautiful riesling with a lovely mouth feel. A little residual sweetness is kept tidy with a fine acid balance. Excellent stuff. Score: 93/100 Cellar: 6 years

Castle Rock Riesling 2009 ($22) Rob Diletti is one the region's best winemaker and his rieslings are treated with deft handling to capture the best of this special vineyard high in the Porongurups. This is flinty dry with a spicy citrus aroma. On the palate you get that clean pure minerality with a spicy complexity supported with fine acid. A wine for 10 years in the cellar. Score: 94/100 Cellar: 10 years

Xabregas Show Reserve Dry Riesling 2009 ($25) Beautifully pristine and slaty minerally riesling from this excellent Great Southern producer. Typical Great Southern spiciness with fine lime juice characters. It's tight yet the fine acid adds a delicacy that is most appealing. Beautiful mouth feel. Score: 93/100 Cellar: 8 years

Cherubino riesling 2009 ($35) This is sourced from the Porongurups and it is a beautiful example of the delicacy and finesse of this area for riesling. Brings a light spicy limey character to the wine. It's quite low in alcohol but the flavour carries forever on a beautifully pristine and pure plate. Effortless and very long his is class riesling. You expect class from Cherubino and this one delivers. Score: 95/100 Cellar: 10 years

Ferngrove Vineyards Estate Cossack riesling 2009 ($22) This riesling has consistently been one of the finest released in WA. It comes from a special bit of the Frankland River vineyard and produces wine of extraordinary finesse and delicacy but at the same time intensity and powerful palate length. This is a beauty. Score: 93/100 Cellar: 10 years

Abbey Creek Riesling 2009 ($19) Another super Riesling from this little Great Southern vineyard that has made some spectacular Rieslings over the past few years. This is one of the more delicate but don't let that deceive you. It has intensity and length wrapped tightly with crisp acid and a spicy minerality. Score: 94/100 Cellar: 10 years

Chatsfield Riesling 2008 ($18) This is a fuller flavoured Riesling starting to show some lovely toasty limey characters on the nose and palate. It's still lively with a fresh crisp acid palate, but that extra dimension of flavour really sets it apart. Good wine in the short term. Cellar: 87/100 Cellar: 3 years

Duke's Riesling 2008 ($20) The Rieslings at Dukes are pretty damned good and this is another beauty that is showing some really nice characters at this early stage but still has plenty of time ahead of it. Has a spicy floral aroma with some obvious lime juice smells. The fine delicate palate has a fine acid sustaining a very long finish. Classic Great Southern riesling. Score: 86/100 Cellar: 7 years

Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge riesling 2008 ($28) Frankland Estate have maintained a firm commitment to riesling with a number of excellent single vineyard wines among the portfolio. This is their best known riesling. It's perfumed and floral with spicy citrus nuances. The palate is typically tight and lean but with superb intensity and length. The acid is delicate yet prolonged. Very nice wine. Score: 91/100 Cellar: 10 years

Galafrey Dry Land riesling 2009 ($20) Another cracking riesling from this old dry grown Riesling vineyard. Opens with an intense spicy pear and lime character on the nose. The mouth puckering dry palate has a piercing acidity supporting intense and lively fruit. A very fine riesling style that has great ageing potential. Score: 93/1009 Cellar: 10 years

Mount Trio Vineyard Gravel Pit riesling 2009 ($20) Delicate and subtle yet with lingering fruit intensity on a pure spicy palate. This is typical of this very good year. A classy Riesling with a nice tight mix of minerals and lime juice delivered with understatement and subtlety. Score: 90/100 Cellar: 4 years

Oranje Tractor Wine Albany Riesling 2009 ($19.50) Superb Riesling year and a superb Riesling. It's delicate and with a great deal of finesse yet it has some inner power and intensity that will ensure it can age. This is a high class wine with the usual lime and mineral characters splashed with some delightful fragrant bath salt spiciness. Score: 92/100 Cellar: 7 years

Poacher's Ridge Louis' Block riesling 2009 ($19) Has a really pungent aroma of fresh lime zest and lemon with an edgy mineral thread. The palate has plenty of intense citrus flavour with the minerality spliced with a touch of spice. Consistently one of the better Rieslings. Lovely bone dry palate to finish. Score: 92/100 Cellar: 6 years

3drops Riesling 2009 ($22) Superb Riesling that captures the essence of the Great Southern style. It's crisp and racy with distinct spicy lime zest aromas leading into a palate of extraordinary depth and persistence. The acid is fine and delicate yet carries a very long flavour profile. Score: 95/100 Cellar: 8 years

West Cape Howe Riesling 2009 ($20) A mighty good follow-up to the excellent 08 vintage. This is more delicate and shows more subtle finesse as a result of an exceptional year. Fine limey spicy characters on the nose with a delicate persistent palate supported with a zippy acidity. Excellent current drinking with a crunchy lively mouth feel. Score: 92/100 Cellar: 5 years

Gilbert Wines riesling 2008 ($18.90) Wonderful lemon blossom scents with traces of bath salts on the nose. This is a real mouth puckering lip-smacking Riesling that gets the juices flowing. Crisp and lean with a spicy citrus tang. This is what this area does so well. Score: 94/100 Cellar: 8 years

Trevelen Farm Riesling 2008 ($25) There is something about this little vineyard that produces a distinctive and classical Riesling and this is one of the finest yet. It has a real intensity and tightness which carries to a wonderfully long finish. Bracing and fine with a crisp piercing acidity sustaining the long finish. Outstanding wine. Score: 94/100 Cellar: 10 years

THE OLDER RIESLINGS

The overriding feature of these older wines is that they have retained their freshness and palate vitality. In most cases they have only just started to head into that mature phase and would reward further cellaring. The difficult thing might be keeping your hands off them however.

I have not included prices here as these wines are no longer available from cellar door or retail.

Poacher's Ridge Riesling 2004 Fresh and toasty with a lively fine acidity. Still drinking beautifully with a piercing acid the feature. Palate is long with fruit really starting to merge. Score: 91/100

Phillips Brook Great Southern Riesling 2003 Still quite crisp although showing some development. It's more restrained and has a degree of delicacy that delivers on a long palate. Precise finish. Score: 89/100

Alkoomi Frankland River Riesling 2004 This has gone into a time warp There is almost no development and the zingy lively palate is long and fresh to its very impressive finish. Notes of lemon zest and lime with a floral overlay. Very good. Score: 90/100

Gilberts Mount Barker Riesling 1994 (Under cork) Unfortunately the cork was a little crumbly and this has resulted in some oxidation. However you know that with a decent seal (i.e. screw cape) this would have been a beauty. There is still some hint of fresh breakfast toastiness sitting behind it. (Not rated because of the poor cork)

West Cape Howe Mount Barker Riesling 2004 Showing some forward development with a little minerally lime toasty character. It's still tight and lively though I suspect it will be a shorter term drinking wine than some. Score: 88/100

Castle Rock Riesling 2002 This is one of my favourite Great Southern rieslings. Gorgeous complexity on the nose and palate yet it is still fresh and youthful. Lively fine acid sustains the impressively taut palate which holds its line to a very long finish. Still has some years to go. Score: 95/100

Ducketts Mill Riesling 2004 This is a quite delicate and soft riesling showing some gentle acid. More in the floral spectrum with some nice crunchy fruit. Generous palate showing some phenolic interest. Score: 87/100

Trevelen Farm riesling 2002 One of the most austere of all the Great Southern rieslings. As a youngster it is really tight as a drum and minerally and this one is only just emerging from that tight stage. Lively zippy mineral and limey palate with a fine lingering acid. Still plenty in the tank for further ageing. Score: 93/100

Ferngrove Cossack riesling 2002 Not hard to see why this is the wine that started it all for Ferngrove with its multi trophy success. It's still so fine and delicate and has hardly moved from when I last tasted it five years ago. Has years left. One of the great wines of Western Australia. Score: 96/100

Abbey Creek Riesling 2003 One of the best small producers in the Porongurups consistently producing a lean and austere style of riesling with its fine acid and crisp lemony lime characters. This still has some years ahead of it. Very good. Score: 94/100

Shepherd's Hut Porongurup riesling 2005 Lemon scents bounce off the nose with a little floral overlay. The palate is powerfully delivered with plenty of intense riesling fruit showing some slight phenolic character. Crisp acid keeps it clean and long. Score: 87/.100

Mount Trio Great Southern riesling 2005 There's a real regional pungency about this one with those powerful spicy mineral characters well to the fore. The palate is powerful and complex although not showing any toasty development. Clean crisp finish. Score: 89/100

Plantagenet riesling 2004 Beautifully made riesling expressing the best of the region with some subtle toasty development just emerging from the bright lively citrus dominated palate. It's still long and keen with a fine thread of acid to the finish. Score: 92/100